Watch out! Those Zombies can kill you. |
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Tuesday, October 30, 2012
Halloween Coctails
Portland Cocktail Week wrap-up
Volunteers set up for a whiskey tasting. |
My posts have told you about a lot of the fun at PDXCW, but bartenders
also come to the cocktail week to improve their craft. Local Oregon Bartenders Guild is a chapter of
the US Bartenders Guild. All 34 chapters
of the USBG were represented, with attendees traveling to Portland from 26
states for a total of around 500 bartenders.
Many bartenders also volunteer.
Volunteers are a key contributing factor to the success of PDXCW. Volunteers help set up for tastings and
events and pick up afterwards so that classrooms may be turned around
quickly. There were always volunteers
available to pitch in and do what needed to be done.
PDXCW has plenty of sponsors that provide support, sponsor
events, and provide food and drink for tastings and other events. On the sponsors’ page you will mostly see
brand logos, but behind many of those brands are large corporate sponsors like
Diageo and Pernod Ricard. In addition to
the sponsors, other craft bartenders devote days or weeks to develop seminars
on topics referenced in other posts like molecular mixology or cocktail
photography. Camper English of Alcademics organized two days of seminars called
the Drink.Write program on cocktails and writing with, of course, some tastings
and fun thrown in.
My apologies if any significant contributors were missed or if
credit was misattributed. Please let me
know and it will be corrected.
Thursday, October 25, 2012
Extra-curricular activities at Portland Cocktail Week
Vendor drink cards feature cocktails made from new products. |
Rather than hiring a run-of-the-mill caterer for this event,
Drambuie hired a food-truck to park outside the club and serve food on
demand. The food in question was poutine;
the truck seemed to have twenty kinds of the dish that consists of french-fries
smothered in cheese and gravy and more cheese.
Each mouthful of poutine seemed like another cholesterol-laden nail in
my coffin, so I only ate a partial serving to ensure that the coffin was not
firmly sealed and to leave some opportunity for escape from the tomb. It was then, with only a little food in my stomach,
that I decided to sample the cocktails.
My favorites were the Fortified Cup (Drambuie, Sweet Vermouth, Cocchi
Americano, Punt E Mes, and lemon) and the After School Special (Drambuie 15,
Orgeat, Angostura Bitters, lemon, and soda).
At this point I discovered another bar with three more cocktail recipes,
and decided it was time to move on to the next activity.
The House of Zwack is a Hungarian firm that produces a nice
Amaro named Unicum and is introducing a sweeter variation of it that is aged
with plums in the barrel named Unicom Plum, and sixth generation descendant of
the founder, Isabella Zwack, was present to talk about her family history. They also were serving some Hungarian dishes that
appeared to have a lower cholesterol content than the poutine. Just looking at them made me feel healthier. For cocktails, the House of Zwack not only
had some original recipes, but had world-class bartenders serving them: Tim
Philips (Hemmesphere, Australia) is Diageo Reserve World Class Bartender of the
Year 2012, and Ricky Gomez (New Orleans) is U.S.World Class Ambassador Winner
2012. Two of the cocktail suggestions
had caught my eye, one was made with Scotch and Unicum, and the other with Rye
and Unicum Plum. I asked Tim for a
recommendation, and he suggested the Safety Deposit Box (Unicum, Johnnie Walker
Gold Label, Mezcal, and Bianco Vermouth with a twist of lemon). It was an excellent, well balanced cocktail,
and made by a great bartender to boot.
The night was still young, and there were only three more
parties to go! Even astute readers will
have difficulty determining how much I had to drink, and so did I. Don’t forget
that in addition to all of the cocktails and partial cocktails I had at the
first two parties, that was building on the foundation of all of the damage I
had done during my
day at cocktail school. While I’m
sure that there were some hearty souls who made it to all five parties, I
decided that I would not attempt to be among them, and caught a bus back to my
hotel. Before casting aspersions, just
remember that two out of five means you’re batting 400.
A school day at Portland Cocktail Week
Samples of Jameson Whiskeys await tasting. |
This labyrinthine hotel seems to be short on maps, but the
staff is very helpful, so the diligent student can usually find his or her
destination. Cocktail week classes
operate on what is known as “bartender time,” which means they start late. My
first class on Tuesday was “Modernist Techniques for the Cocktail Bar,”
presented by Dave Arnold, Don Lee, and Tristan Willey. The class ran over two hours and the key
message was that these techniques should be used to make cocktails taste and
look better and to create a better customer experience, not in an attempt to
impress people. After a discussion of
the tools you will need to employ these techniques, along with safety
considerations, the presenters wowed the students with the intensity of the
flavors they were able to extract from herbs and spices and infuse into the liquors
they gave us to sample.
The next class was a tasting of Jameson’s Irish
Whiskeys. Master Distiller Barry
Crockett had been scheduled to appear, but had been hospitalized and had to be
replaced by Patrick Caulfield, who very ably led us through the tasting. After a brief history of Irish Whiskey and a
discussion on its increasing popularity, Patrick talked about the four whiskeys
he had brought for us to taste: Jameson Black Barrel, Jameson Gold Reserve,
Midleton Barry Crockett Legacy, and Red Breast.
The first two blend pot and column distilled whiskeys, and the last two are
both single pot still whiskeys. The
Midleton (~$350) has not yet been released in the US, and the US will only
receive 12,000 cases, so Utah may not see much of this excellent whiskey. We each had four wine glasses, each with
about ¾ ounce of one of the whiskeys, and while the normal protocol at a
tasting is to just drink a bit, all of mine seemed to disappear by the time it
was over.
By now you will have noticed that Cocktail Week school differs
from most other schools: they serve cocktails in class… lots of them. My next class, “It’s not the size of your
Barrels, It’s how you use them,” presented by Gable Erenzo, Hudson Whiskey
Ambassador, was no exception. This class
was a little more scientific than most; it came with PowerPoint slides of
tables and graphs that summarized the research on using smaller barrels to age
whiskeys. The findings were very
interesting. Small barrels greatly
accelerate the aging of whiskey. Rather
than checking the barrels yearly and then perhaps monthly, small barrels must
be checked monthly and then daily when they approach maturity. 60% of the flavor of a whiskey comes from the
barrel, and while whiskeys age faster in small barrels, their taste at maturity
will not match that of the same whiskey aged slowly in a larger barrel. Gable led us through the tasting of four
excellent whiskeys, including a white dog corn whiskey that was surprisingly smooth
for not being aged.
The school day ended with a ride back to the Jupiter in a
school bus where liquor samples were being poured and shared. It was one of the more raucous school bus
rides I have ever had. When school is
out, though, the day is only half over. On
this evening, there were four different extra-curricular activities scheduled. They will be covered in the next post.
Dale DeGroff enthralls audience at Portland Cocktail Week
Dale DeGroff sings at the 2011 opening reception. |
Much of the time, DeGroff talks about his first love: bars
and bartending. He is a talented
raconteur, and one gets the feeling that he is just scratching the surface of
the stories he could tell about bars he has worked in or visited, and the gossip
about the famous people who frequented those bars. The multi-media presentation covers events in
300 years of cocktail history, from the rise of Rum in colonial America (George
Washingtom owned five stills) through the cocktail glory days of the late
nineteenth century and the down to the dark days of prohibition. DeGroff’s own part of the story begins in
1969 when he went to New York as a young man looking for work, and continues
through the cocktail revival until today.
On cue during DeGroff’s presentation, cocktails related to
the era being described were served. The
drinks, some historic cocktails and others developed by DeGroff, included Punch
Royale, The Fitzgerald, Absinthe Frappe, and a Major Bailey. Dale has provided the recipes here. If you have ever had the chance to meet Dale
DeGroff, you know that he is one of the nicest, most down-to-earth people
around, and his personality really comes through in his show.
If you love cocktails and cocktail culture, this is an event
worth seeing. The show usually only
plays only one night, so if it might come to a venue near you, keep an eye on the schedule and buy your
tickets early. Ticket sales for the
event, sponsored by Pernod Ricard and Hendrick’s Gin, benefit the Museum of the
American Cocktail in New Orleans.
Portland Cocktail Week opening reception rocks Portland
Bartender Kevin gives his opinion of the "The Barry Wall" cocktail |
In keeping with the high school theme of the cocktail week,
the room was outfitted like a school gym.
The pennants, however, were for Pernod Ricard brands (sponsor of
the event) like Absolut and Altos (a new Tequila) rather than for teams like the
Wildcats or Utes. There was one major difference;
there were drink stations all around the perimeter of the gym: it was never
like that in high school!
The drink stations at a cocktail week function are normally staffed
by one or two bartenders who make one or two drinks that showcase the sponsor’s
brands. Tonight was no different; there
were new cocktails calling for Jameson’s Whiskey, Olmeca Altos Tequila, Absolut
Vodka, Pernod Absinthe, and Beefeater 24 and Plymouth Gins. The best drink of
the night was The Barry Wall (see photo), made from Beefeater 24, Carpano
Antica, Orange Curaçao, and Orange Bitters.
Ginger appears to be holding its own as the go-to cocktail ingredient
this year. Several cocktails used ginger
or ginger syrup or ginger beer. Jameson's had a whiskey cocktail with ginger
syrup and a lime wedge. Altogether, Pernod presented three drinks with either
ginger syrup or ginger beer. One might
say that the party was fueled by hot music and hot ginger.
Cocktail lovers and bartenders gather in Portland
Sunday evening marked the kickoff event for the third annual
Portland Cocktail Week
(PDXCW2012). The 2012 edition, which
runs from October 21 through October 25, boasts an expanded schedule featuring
two days of seminars and vendor presentations directed toward professional
bartenders on Monday and Tuesday, and even more seminars and vendor
presentations targeted at writers and bloggers on Tuesday and Wednesday, with a
final round of events on Thursday. Attendance
has doubled from 2011; 472 bartenders and cocktail professionals pre-registered
and have come to Portland this year. All
34 chapters of the US Bartenders Guild are represented, with attendees
traveling to Portland from 26 states.
One of the reasons people come to cocktail weeks is for the
festivities, and festivities there will be.
While the days are devoted to liquor oriented education on topics
ranging from writing a business plan for a cocktail bar to cocktail
photography, the nights are devoted to parties and celebration. Tuesday evening seems to be the party peak;
there are no less than four vendor sponsored events scheduled at different
watering-holes around the city, and your correspondent will try to cover as
many of them as is possible.
PDXCW2012 is not the only cocktail week, but it is rapidly
becoming one of the ones to attend. Cocktail weeks are becoming more popular
every year. New Orleans' Tales of the Cocktail is the most well-known; it lasts
ten days and is likely to destroy the liver of anyone who attends the entire
event. Better known cities with vibrant
cocktail scenes that host events include New York, San Francisco, Los Angeles,
and London, so if you love cocktails and can’t make it to PDXCW2012, keep an
eye out for an event in a city near you.
Friday, October 5, 2012
Portland Cocktail Week offers scholarships for Utah bartenders
Chassis the Robot won the 2011 PDXCW Human vs. Robot Bartender Competition |
Portland Cocktail Week is offering a great opportunity for
Utah bartenders: scholarships to the third annual Portland Cocktail Week,
October 21-25 2012. The application
is available online, and is humorous enough to be worth a read even if you’re
not thinking of applying. If you are
interested, apply soon: places are going fast!
Scholars will be granted access to all parties, events,
seminars, and tastings, and have their hotel rooms paid for, but must provide
their own transportation to Portland and pay for most of their own meals. While Portland is not “right next door” to
Salt Lake City (unless you live on the east coast), flights are not
unreasonably priced, and it’s drivable (640 miles) in a pinch.
Some of the highlights of last year’s Portland Cocktail Week
include:
- A Welcome to Cocktail Week party, attended by some of the biggest names in the spirits business, and where no less a cocktail luminary than Dale DeGroff made me a Martini.
- The ladies’ Speed Rack competition to determine who the most skilled lady bartender in Portland was.
- A battle between bartenders and cocktail-making robots to determine who could make the best cocktails. It was like watching a drinking man’s John Henry do battle.
It was a great gathering, and this year’s is bigger, and is
shaping up to be better. To track
emerging developments, follow @PDXCocktailWeek
on Twitter. While you’re at it, be sure
to follow the @UtahMixologist.
Thursday, October 4, 2012
Cocktail ingredients Utah update – October 2012
Vieux Carré may be served up, or on the rocks. |
Now that Diageo markets a Rye Whiskey, we don’t have to wait
for one to go on sale as long as we used to for Jim Beam Rye. Bulleit 95 Rye Whiskey (CS# 027025 marked
down 12% to $22) has been well-reviewed
and rated as a good value. Try it in
a Rye cocktail like the Vieux
Carré. If you are into
Bourbons, two good examples this month are Ridgemont Reserve 1792 Bourbon (down
7% to $28) and Woodford Reserve Bourbon (down 13%
to $30). If you want to make a very mellow
Manhattan, try one with some
Woodford Reserve.
If you are tempted more by imported, brown liquors, there are a couple of good, blended Scotch
Whiskies marked down, too, so if you’re looking for something to put into a really
top-shelf Blood and Sand, you can get some
Chivas Regal 12 Year ($32) or a bottle of Dewars Special Reserve 12 Year
($30), both marked down around 9%.
How about Rum? Appleton Estate Rums, are represented this month. Appleton Estate V/X Rum (a blend of 15 Rums
aged 5 to 10 years) is marked down 15% to $17 this month, try it in a Rum Old Fashioned. If you like dark
Rums, Mount Gay Eclipse Barbados Rum is marked down 11% to $17, use it in your
next Rapture.
If even this late in the year, your taste
runs to liquors of a lighter color, there are still some deals for you. It seems like there are fewer Tequilas
than normal marked down in October, but Familia Camarena Tequilas, one of my
favorite brands for mixing, have the Silver and Reposado both marked down 10%
to $18. If you’ve never tried one, give
the El Diablo a try. Deals on Vodka this month include liter
bottles of Absolut (CS# 034007 down 12% to $23). (Great in a White Russian.) You might also like to try Belvedere (CS#
034155, down 7% to $28) (or even Belvedere Intense) in a Vodka Martini.
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